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KINGSNAKE CARE SHEET
Introduction
The most common species of Kingsnake found in the pet trade is the California Kingsnake
(Lampropeltis getula californiae). As the name states, the California King occurs naturally
in California and its surrounding states. This wonderful, docile snake is now available in a
wide variety of patterns and colors. Due to its relatively small size, ease of care, and
vibrant morphs, the California King is ever-growing in popularity.
Enclosure
A general rule of thumb with snake enclosures is to make them large enough for the snake
to completely stretch out. Hatchlings to sub-adults can be kept in a 10 or 20 gallon tank,
while adults should be kept in a tank that is at least 30 gallons. Best for the adults would
be a 40 gallon tank. Whichever enclosure you choose, be sure it has a secure lid.
Kingsnakes are stronger than they look and they are master escape artists!
Substrate
Kingsnakes can live in a wide variety of substrates. Plantation soil, shredded aspen,
newsprint or sand all make good substrate. Small shredded aspen smells great, your
snake will enjoy burrowing into it, and best of all, it’s relatively inexpensive.
Water and Humidity
Coming from California, these snakes inhabit a wide variety of regions from the beach, to
the mountains, to the plains and deserts. They enjoy mildly humid conditions between 40%
and 60% humidity without any ill affects. A clean bowl of fresh water should be accessible
at all times. Choose a bowl that is large enough for the snake to climb in and completely
soak in it, if it has the desire to. The snake will greatly appreciate this during periods of
shedding.
Heat and Light
Place a thermometer on both sides of the enclosure in order to monitor temperatures
accurately. An appropriately sized heat pad or bulb should be placed on one end of the
enclosure to maintain proper temperatures. The enclosure should be between 82 and 88
degrees Fahrenheit on the warm side, and 70 to 75 degrees on the cool side. These are
the P.O.T.Z. (preferred optimum temperature zones) to allow a Kingsnake to properly
thermo-regulate. Being nocturnal (active at night), no artificial lighting is necessary for
Kingsnakes to thrive.
“Hides” and Décor
To feel secure, your Kingsnake will need a “hide” of some kind. This could be a shoebox
with a hole cut in it, or preferably, a more elaborate cave purchased from your local reptile
store. Other decorations aren’t necessary for your snake to thrive, but it will certainly enjoy
them! While many decorations are esthetically pleasing, Kingsnakes are strong and may
knock things over more easily than you would think possible. Keep this in mind when
preparing your enclosure with decorations. For a snake owner there is nothing more
frustrating than having to continually reposition and replant décor!
Food
A good rule of thumb with snakes is that prey items should be no wider than the widest
part of the snake’s body – “pinkies” for hatchlings, small mice for sub-adults and small rats
for adult snakes. A hatchling snake will eat every five to seven days, while an adult eats
every seven to ten days.
Be sure to have a separate box in which to feed your Kingsnake. If you don’t, they can
become “cage-aggressive”, meaning every time you open the care, they assume they’re
getting fed and may mistake you for the food!
Introduction
The most common species of Kingsnake found in the pet trade is the California Kingsnake
(Lampropeltis getula californiae). As the name states, the California King occurs naturally
in California and its surrounding states. This wonderful, docile snake is now available in a
wide variety of patterns and colors. Due to its relatively small size, ease of care, and
vibrant morphs, the California King is ever-growing in popularity.
Enclosure
A general rule of thumb with snake enclosures is to make them large enough for the snake
to completely stretch out. Hatchlings to sub-adults can be kept in a 10 or 20 gallon tank,
while adults should be kept in a tank that is at least 30 gallons. Best for the adults would
be a 40 gallon tank. Whichever enclosure you choose, be sure it has a secure lid.
Kingsnakes are stronger than they look and they are master escape artists!
Substrate
Kingsnakes can live in a wide variety of substrates. Plantation soil, shredded aspen,
newsprint or sand all make good substrate. Small shredded aspen smells great, your
snake will enjoy burrowing into it, and best of all, it’s relatively inexpensive.
Water and Humidity
Coming from California, these snakes inhabit a wide variety of regions from the beach, to
the mountains, to the plains and deserts. They enjoy mildly humid conditions between 40%
and 60% humidity without any ill affects. A clean bowl of fresh water should be accessible
at all times. Choose a bowl that is large enough for the snake to climb in and completely
soak in it, if it has the desire to. The snake will greatly appreciate this during periods of
shedding.
Heat and Light
Place a thermometer on both sides of the enclosure in order to monitor temperatures
accurately. An appropriately sized heat pad or bulb should be placed on one end of the
enclosure to maintain proper temperatures. The enclosure should be between 82 and 88
degrees Fahrenheit on the warm side, and 70 to 75 degrees on the cool side. These are
the P.O.T.Z. (preferred optimum temperature zones) to allow a Kingsnake to properly
thermo-regulate. Being nocturnal (active at night), no artificial lighting is necessary for
Kingsnakes to thrive.
“Hides” and Décor
To feel secure, your Kingsnake will need a “hide” of some kind. This could be a shoebox
with a hole cut in it, or preferably, a more elaborate cave purchased from your local reptile
store. Other decorations aren’t necessary for your snake to thrive, but it will certainly enjoy
them! While many decorations are esthetically pleasing, Kingsnakes are strong and may
knock things over more easily than you would think possible. Keep this in mind when
preparing your enclosure with decorations. For a snake owner there is nothing more
frustrating than having to continually reposition and replant décor!
Food
A good rule of thumb with snakes is that prey items should be no wider than the widest
part of the snake’s body – “pinkies” for hatchlings, small mice for sub-adults and small rats
for adult snakes. A hatchling snake will eat every five to seven days, while an adult eats
every seven to ten days.
Be sure to have a separate box in which to feed your Kingsnake. If you don’t, they can
become “cage-aggressive”, meaning every time you open the care, they assume they’re
getting fed and may mistake you for the food!
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