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Leopard Gecko Care Sheet
Introduction
The leopard gecko (Eublepharis macularius) is one of the most popular reptiles available.
Not only are they hardy, friendly geckos, they have become available in a wide variety of
colors and patterns. These geckos make wonderful beginner reptiles and a perfect first
time breeding project.
Enclosure
When creating the enclosure for your leopard gecko, consider that they are native to the
Middle East. There, the terrain is rock, sand, small bushes and small caves .Try to
replicate this in your enclosure.
An adult pair of leopard geckos can be housed in a 20 gallon terrarium for the lifespan of
the gecko.
Substrate
There is a wide variety of substrates available. Some gecko owners prefer sand, and use
it for years without any ill effects, while some never use it for fear of compaction. If you
choose to use sand, be sure it is super-fine grade or better yet, calcium sand. This
special sand, if eaten, will absorb into the gecko as calcium, instead of compacting it.
Water and Humidity
Coming from the Middle East, leopard geckos require a dry environment. A small water
dish is more than sufficient. However, a “hide” (a hiding place for the gecko) that contains
either moss, vermiculite, or something similar that holds water, is advisable. This will give
your gecko a humid place to hide, which will help greatly during the shedding process.
Heating and Lighting
Heating requirements for leopard geckos are easily achieved using either heat pads,
tape or an appropriate wattage heat bulb. To insure proper thermo-regulating by your
gecko, be sure to install a temperature gradient. A temperature gradient can be achieved
by placing your heating element on one side of the enclosure only. (See the article
“Understanding Ectotherms” for more detailed information.)
The hot side should be kept between 85 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, and the cool side
about 75 degrees. Be sure to place a thermometer on both sides of the enclosure to be
able to monitor the temperatures. A night-time drop of about 10 degrees is good, as well.
Special lighting is not required as leopard geckos are nocturnal (active at night) reptiles.
Food
Leopard geckos are insectivorious. Crickets and mealworms are most commonly used for
feeding these geckos. Roaches and waxworms also make nice treats! Be sure to “gut
load” (feed prior to giving them to your reptile), and dust your crickets before feeding
them to your geckos. Most reptile shops will carry cricket diet to make the crickets into
healthier food for your geckos. A calcium supplement can be dusted on food items at
least twice a week to help prevent metabolic bone diseases in your reptiles. This is
especially important if you intend to breed your geckos since egg production uses
calcium in your female geckos.
Breeding
Leopard geckos are easily bred, often as simply as putting a male with a female. The first
step in breeding is to insure you have a pair or a group. Males have large femoral pores
just before the vent, as well as bulges that females do not have. NEVER place two males
together in the same enclosure because they will fight! Two males can cause serious
injury to one another, fighting even until death.
A male can successfully breed to numerous females. A good male to female ratio is 1
male for every 5 females in one enclosure. Different ratios can be used, but this formula
will not leave your males drained. Underweight females (less than 40 grams) should not
be placed with a male, as it can be harmful and even fatal to breed an underweight
female.
The act of mating is usually violent. The male will chase down the female, biting and
pinning her down in order to mate. As serious as this may look, there is no cause for
alarm! The male will not hurt the female.
After the mating ritual is complete, it’s important to provide the female with a “lay box”.
This box should be relatively small and should contain either vermiculite or another
substance which holds moisture well. Keep it damp - but not soaked - at all times. Your
female should lay her eggs in this container instead of on the floor of the enclosure.
When she is close to the time of laying her eggs, you should be able to see the eggs
through her underbelly. Typically, they will lay clutches of two eggs every 30 to 40 days
throughout the breeding season.
Incubation
Once they are laid, the eggs should never be rotated. This is a critical step in your
success at breeding leopard geckos. Unlike chicken eggs, the embryo of these geckos
will attach itself to the wall of the egg’s shell. If the egg rotates, the embryo will
drown.
Incubation period can be anywhere from 30 to 60 days although longer periods are
common. The sex of the gecko is determined through incubation temperature.
Temperatures between 79 and 82 degrees will produce mostly females, and take 45 to
60 days to hatch. Eggs incubated at 87 to 90 degrees will hatch in 30 to 45 days and
consist mostly of males. Incubation of 85 degrees should produce an approximate 50/50
ration of males to females and take around 45 days to hatch. When incubated at
temperatures exceeding 90 degrees, “hot females” are produced. These are generally
aggressive females that are infertile, so beware of temperatures exceeding 90 degrees
when you incubate.
Conclusion
Generally, leopard geckos are easy to keep, easy to breed and make for wonderful and
often, beautiful additions to any reptile collection. This gecko is the perfect animal for a
first-timer or an experienced looking to branch out. With the variety of colors and patterns
available now, the possibilities for more vibrant and exciting colors and patterns is
endless!
Introduction
The leopard gecko (Eublepharis macularius) is one of the most popular reptiles available.
Not only are they hardy, friendly geckos, they have become available in a wide variety of
colors and patterns. These geckos make wonderful beginner reptiles and a perfect first
time breeding project.
Enclosure
When creating the enclosure for your leopard gecko, consider that they are native to the
Middle East. There, the terrain is rock, sand, small bushes and small caves .Try to
replicate this in your enclosure.
An adult pair of leopard geckos can be housed in a 20 gallon terrarium for the lifespan of
the gecko.
Substrate
There is a wide variety of substrates available. Some gecko owners prefer sand, and use
it for years without any ill effects, while some never use it for fear of compaction. If you
choose to use sand, be sure it is super-fine grade or better yet, calcium sand. This
special sand, if eaten, will absorb into the gecko as calcium, instead of compacting it.
Water and Humidity
Coming from the Middle East, leopard geckos require a dry environment. A small water
dish is more than sufficient. However, a “hide” (a hiding place for the gecko) that contains
either moss, vermiculite, or something similar that holds water, is advisable. This will give
your gecko a humid place to hide, which will help greatly during the shedding process.
Heating and Lighting
Heating requirements for leopard geckos are easily achieved using either heat pads,
tape or an appropriate wattage heat bulb. To insure proper thermo-regulating by your
gecko, be sure to install a temperature gradient. A temperature gradient can be achieved
by placing your heating element on one side of the enclosure only. (See the article
“Understanding Ectotherms” for more detailed information.)
The hot side should be kept between 85 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, and the cool side
about 75 degrees. Be sure to place a thermometer on both sides of the enclosure to be
able to monitor the temperatures. A night-time drop of about 10 degrees is good, as well.
Special lighting is not required as leopard geckos are nocturnal (active at night) reptiles.
Food
Leopard geckos are insectivorious. Crickets and mealworms are most commonly used for
feeding these geckos. Roaches and waxworms also make nice treats! Be sure to “gut
load” (feed prior to giving them to your reptile), and dust your crickets before feeding
them to your geckos. Most reptile shops will carry cricket diet to make the crickets into
healthier food for your geckos. A calcium supplement can be dusted on food items at
least twice a week to help prevent metabolic bone diseases in your reptiles. This is
especially important if you intend to breed your geckos since egg production uses
calcium in your female geckos.
Breeding
Leopard geckos are easily bred, often as simply as putting a male with a female. The first
step in breeding is to insure you have a pair or a group. Males have large femoral pores
just before the vent, as well as bulges that females do not have. NEVER place two males
together in the same enclosure because they will fight! Two males can cause serious
injury to one another, fighting even until death.
A male can successfully breed to numerous females. A good male to female ratio is 1
male for every 5 females in one enclosure. Different ratios can be used, but this formula
will not leave your males drained. Underweight females (less than 40 grams) should not
be placed with a male, as it can be harmful and even fatal to breed an underweight
female.
The act of mating is usually violent. The male will chase down the female, biting and
pinning her down in order to mate. As serious as this may look, there is no cause for
alarm! The male will not hurt the female.
After the mating ritual is complete, it’s important to provide the female with a “lay box”.
This box should be relatively small and should contain either vermiculite or another
substance which holds moisture well. Keep it damp - but not soaked - at all times. Your
female should lay her eggs in this container instead of on the floor of the enclosure.
When she is close to the time of laying her eggs, you should be able to see the eggs
through her underbelly. Typically, they will lay clutches of two eggs every 30 to 40 days
throughout the breeding season.
Incubation
Once they are laid, the eggs should never be rotated. This is a critical step in your
success at breeding leopard geckos. Unlike chicken eggs, the embryo of these geckos
will attach itself to the wall of the egg’s shell. If the egg rotates, the embryo will
drown.
Incubation period can be anywhere from 30 to 60 days although longer periods are
common. The sex of the gecko is determined through incubation temperature.
Temperatures between 79 and 82 degrees will produce mostly females, and take 45 to
60 days to hatch. Eggs incubated at 87 to 90 degrees will hatch in 30 to 45 days and
consist mostly of males. Incubation of 85 degrees should produce an approximate 50/50
ration of males to females and take around 45 days to hatch. When incubated at
temperatures exceeding 90 degrees, “hot females” are produced. These are generally
aggressive females that are infertile, so beware of temperatures exceeding 90 degrees
when you incubate.
Conclusion
Generally, leopard geckos are easy to keep, easy to breed and make for wonderful and
often, beautiful additions to any reptile collection. This gecko is the perfect animal for a
first-timer or an experienced looking to branch out. With the variety of colors and patterns
available now, the possibilities for more vibrant and exciting colors and patterns is
endless!
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